Hopleaf Bar
5148 N. Clark St. (5200N, 1500W)
Chicago, IL 60640
(773) 334-9851

"Friendliest bar on the North Side"

I've got a secret for you. If I tell you, you must promise that you'll keep it to yourself. Shhh, lean closer. Are you listening? Here it is: one of the best neighborhood bars in Chicago is not not in Lincoln Park, Bucktown or even Lakeview. It's in the far north Chicago hamlet of Andersonville, and its name is the Hopleaf Bar. "Hopleaf" is as simple as how it is known to the locals that carefully guard its anonymity from Chicagoans living further south and from the even bigger threat of suburban influx. This is not a Joe's Sports Bar, but rather a very cool neighborhood joint that draws its loyal following from its laid-back vibe, tasteful decor, eclectic tunes, newly offered menu including steamed mussels, and one of the best beer selections in the city.

For years, Andersonville has quietly become one of Chicago's most popular neighborhood enclaves. The area is clean, gang-free, easily accessible to the Loop (thanks to Lake Shore Drive and Clark Street buses), and has a unique character due to its Swedish roots and recent influence of older gay couples migrating from Boystown further south. The result is an interesting mix of kitschy boutiques, excellent restaurants like the original location of both Ann Sather's Restaurant and Reza's (Mediterranean), and notable imbiberies that include Simon's and Konak. Hopleaf itself is located near the corner of Clark and Winona Street, just south of Foster Avenue. To find it, keep your eye out for the modest, hand-made Hopleaf sign depicting the three-leafed hop plant, or the smallish red neon Hopleaf sign both above the wooden door with plate glass. The best way to get there is via cab unless you don't mind a long walk from the Lawrence El stop on the Red Line or the slow boat to China, otherwise known as the Clark Street #22 bus. If you cab it, don't worry. Just because it's way up north you'll be able to find one going back south, which makes it easy to head directly over to the Lakeview Lounge, Carol's Pub or Nick's Uptown for some late-night action.

Photo courtesty of Andrew M.

If you can deal with the occasional snobbiness of the bartenders, belly up and order from one of Hopleaf's 18 taps and selection of more than 150 beers, over 30 of which are Belgian – the bar's specialty. Only Quenchers offers more in the city, but fewer on tap. Personally, I have sampled many of these barley offerings and have been quite impressed with the Dogfish Head Stout, Schlenkeria Rouchbier (a "smoked" German beer ordered by a friend that tastes disturbingly close to beef jerky but which is surprisingly good), De Dolle 20th Anniversary Ale, Marcofrau, Framboise Lambic, Stille Nacht, Cantillon Iris, Eugene Debs Red Ale, Zatte Bie, an impressive selection of mead, and the Swedish glög (only available in the winter months and quite fitting considering the neighborhood). The bar itself is actually named after a beer from Roper's ancestral Malta. What's more: each beer, no matter how obscure, has a certain glass that is ideally suited to experience the libation as it was meant to. Fruity beers are served in a glass with a large opening so that you can appreciate its aroma as much as its taste. Drier and more bitter beers are served in narrower glasses, as we wouldn't want your nose to be overwhelmed by hops. These glasses are stored next to the bar, on glass shelving and showcased by a back-lit wall of glass blocks. In addition to the glowing display of specialty glassware, owner Michael Roper even had a custom-made Bell's Brewery neon sign that now hangs proudly in the window. Now that's what you call a commitment to beer. Have no idea what you want? Not a beer lover? Don't worry, the bartenders will offer suggestions and often will pour you a sample so that you can have a taste before making any commitments – just don't try to order a Bud Light, MGD and, for the love of God, don't ask for a Stella Artois. If you forget, don't be surprised by the open disdain of the bartenders as Hopleaf does not carry these "wannabe" beers. Stella in particular, while made in Belgium, tastes more like a lager and not a traditional Belgian brew, and is not regarded highly by Belgian enthusiasts. Hopleaf does offer a good selection of wine and single-malt Scotch if you're so inclined.

Not only does Hopleaf offer a most impressive array of beer, but they now offer an excellent menu of Belgian food. The dining room can be found up the ramp, past the bookcase in the front room. There you'll find a number of low-slung wooden tables within a high-ceilinged vault of exposed brick and long plate glass windows. The steamed mussels are the stand-out at Hopleaf. I am allergic to shellfish but I work with a Walloon (French Belgian), who has very good taste in food and he claims the mussels to be very good and the best you can get in Chicago. To my mind, this is an official Belgian certification and good enough for me to recommend it. I've had the steak with pomme frites (thin French fries), and it was excellent – as good as I've had at Le Bouchon, my favorite French restaurant in the city. As the green pole with white lettering indicates, you can enjoy your meal in a smoke-free environment but you can still smoke in the bar. Food is also served in the main barroom. Because the food is excellent, particularly when combined with a selection of the Belgian ale, that don't be surprised if there's a two-hour wait during primetime on the weekends. My advice: get there early on weekends (before 8pm) or head over to Hopleaf during the week.

While weekdays can be pretty quiet, weekends at the Hopleaf can get a bit claustrophobic. The room upstairs offers additional space but is quite small, with a very narrow hallway and only a few tables, and does not offer any of the beer on tap. The crowd mainly consists of mellow neighborhood types, ranging in age from late twenties to middle age. Hopleaf promotes itself as friendly but many, including myself, have found the atmosphere to be a tad pretentious in a Wicker Park sort of way. Patrons are often local theater types, beer connoisseurs, musicians, older neighborhood couples (gay and straight), and those venturing in from outside the area – the types that Andersonville-ites fear will overrun their little treasure. However, this shouldn't bother you as you explore the drinks menu and enjoy the tunes. Think of Hopleaf as a Caribou Coffee with beer and without the fireplace.

"Intellectually superior to the Map Room, ultimately more comfortable that the Clark Street Ale House, and beerologically superior to all the other trendoid establishments. If you want smiling bartenders acting like they are interested in your oh-so-boring-crap-for-a-story life go elsewhere. If you want to drink good beer and talk about Arabic language translation software while listening to what is arguably one of the best jukeboxes in the city, then come on over to the Hopleaf. Or maybe you shouldn't. Maybe you should just stay at home and watch TV."

– R.D., Chicago (originally appeared February 27 on Metromix)

Intellectually superior? Arabic language translation software? Hmm...

"We're guessing the reason this popular but wholly unremarkable Andersonville spot has bothered to collect such an extensive selection of beers is probably to compensate for the fact that the bartenders are such raging assholes... You are guaranteed icy contempt with every drink but beyond that it's a whole lotta nothin': no jukebox, no specials, no reason to go back without a hand grenade."

– Shecky's Bar, Club & Lounge Guide 2002

Photo courtesy of Drinking & Writing Brewery

While I don't quite agree with Shecky's jaded, yet entertaining review, they make a good point: the only thing holding Hopleaf back from being a great bar is that it does not have as friendly an atmosphere as is advertised. In my opinion, if the bartenders and regulars were more like those found at Gannon's Pub or the Four Moon Tavern, Hopleaf might rank as one of the city's top pubs. Regardless, Hopleaf is one of my favorite bars as it stands out for its relaxed vibe and is a paradise for beer lovers. Hopleaf was even one of only 12 bars in Chicago rated Four Mugs (highest) by The Official Chicago Bar Guide in 2001 and was ranked "Top Tavern" nationally by All About Beer. I would especially recommend the Hopleaf, both before and after, a viewing of Too Much Light Makes the Baby Go Blind (TML MTBGB), which is a 15-year old, ever changing comedic masterpiece put on by the Neo Futurists (located on the southeast corner of Foster and Ashland, just above the Nelson Funeral Home). Just don't expect the locals to welcome you with open arms. Kippis!

"Hopleaf recently added 12 more taps for a total of 30. They are also emphasizing Belgians on tap (8 when I was there) and there variety and quality on draft is now matched only by the Map Room. They also plan to expand seating and add a small kitchen that will focus on Belgian foods."

– T.G., July 29, 2002

"Well, I am afraid I am of the 'great beers, lousy service camp.' I am a brewer and lover of fine Belgian ales. And I appreciate what the owners have tried to do with their line, and admire them for holding tough in that mission. However, like another reviewer, I have been so fed up in the past with unbelievably rude bartenders that I swore the place off. Last night, I went with a group. Our bartender was a nice guy. The owner himself was so unbelievably amped and rude to myself and my friends that I will, definitely, not be going back. My wife and I ordered full dinners, as did most of my friends. Between the two of us, we ordered several bottles of 333 and 750 ml Belgian ales. Same for the rest of the company. One of them brought in a small portion of artisanal cheeses from an event he hosted over the weekend, not knowing the place now served food. These were rare cheeses, and we were glad to try them. Most of us are in the industry, and understand the custom of 'no outside food.' But there is a way to handle this, and the way the owner handled it ensured I will never return. We apologized for bringing the cheese, and asked if he would like us to put it away; I mentioned we were sorry, but meant no harm – after all, had already dropped close to $80 per couple. He 'instructed' me on how you don't bring beer into a bar, and so you don't bring food into a restaurant. Agree on point, but lousy delivery. We were soundly, and publicly rebuked. To hell with the Hopleaf. There are plenty of other choices."

– P.S. (September 7, 2003)

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– written by Sean Parnell

Photo courtesty of Andrew M.