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Created February 5, 2003 |
© The Chicago Bar Project |
Local Option
1102 W. Webster Ave. (2200N, 1100W)
Chicago, IL 60614
(773) 348-2008
Deep in the heart of the Sheffield Neighbors is an intriguing "shack" known in the area as the Local Option. Although almost unknown to many North Siders, the Option is a popular hangout for local residents and DePaul students. Even fewer realize that the Local Option is one of the last of the traditional Chicago neighborhood bars, takes its name after an attempt to prevent its opening, serves an excellent selection of Cajun food the likes of which even gives Heaven on Seven a run for their money, and is responsible for introducing Rolling Rock beer to the area. Put that in your pipe and smoke it.
Nestled firmly into the block, the Local Option can be found at the base of a non-descript three-flat on the north side of Webster Avenue, just west of Seminary. Pink neon illuminates "Local Option ~ Oyster Bar" on a sign that hangs in a large picture window above vintage photographs of local street scenes. You'll only need to have your ID ready on the weekends as you step through the red chili-peppered door. Inside the Local Option, you'll find a long narrow room with a worn wooden floor, an old wooden bar that runs along the east wall, and a couple of low-slung wooden tables in the front window. Pull up a red-vinyl barstool and you'll find that you're drinking under white-painted, pier-like lights and a green bicycle with Rolling Rock painted on it that hangs from a black-painted ceiling, just like at Justin's (sans canoe). A chalkboard hangs on the wall behind the bar and just above an antique Frigidaire and a large safe, and illustrates the beer selection at the Local Option, of which Rolling Rock is proudly featured. In fact, shortly after the bar was opened, owner Hugh Haller convinced the Pennsylvanian brewery that there was a market for a beer here in Chicago. Prior to that, Rolling Rock was nowhere to be found in the city. Thanks to Hugh's tenacity and Cincinnati roots, Rolling Rock is now served at the majority of bars in Chicago and the company even sponsors the Sheffield Garden Walk. The Local Option also continues to serve the latest and greatest suds. And remember: while the selection is strong, there's never a drink special to be had in this tavern.
No room at the bar? Pull up a stool at one of the cocktail tables across from it and under the three-part, framed mural featuring pool (bottom panel), flowers (top left) and a saxophone (top right) that hangs from a beige stuccoed wall. When the conversation dries up and if there's nothing on one of the televisions, have a crack at the Mars Attacks pinball machine in the north end of the room, just before the women's bathroom and next to the Golden Tee and wooden, cigar store Indian. Further entertainment can be had on the Touch Master video poker machine found at the end of the bar. Beyond the bar is a hallway that leads to what used to be the back room but is now what remains of the Local Shack, a Cajun restaurant next door, which was not surprisingly under the same ownership. Here, you'll find a smattering of wooden tables covered with red & white checkered tablecloths that have replaced a red-felted pool table and green and red-painted milk jugs with felted seats, and a kitchen that has replaced the small wooden oyster bar where patrons used to shuck away. They still have the giant framed collage, containing photos of, articles on, fliers for, and invitations to the Local Option and, thank God, the shuffle bowling in the hallway remains. Additional seating can be found in the outdoor patio in
warmer times.
In the back room, you are sure to enjoy a sampling of food that's hard to find outside of New Orleans: po' boys, Creole coleslaw, seafood gumbo blackened tilapia, clams, blackened chicken, spicy corn and crab soup, muffaletta sandwiches, and chicken and andouille jambalaya all of which is served in plastic baskets. You'll also find chicken wings, beer battered fries, fish tacos served with grilled swordfish, and bourbon bread pudding for dessert. The average entr?e will set you back $8 to $20. Lunch and weekend brunch are also served, the latter featuring crab cakes with poached eggs, banana and pecan pancakes, salmon-topped bagels, and egg, potato and andouille hash. Carryout is also available. In recognition of its culinary achievements, the Chicago Tribune gave the Local Option three out of four forks. While the food is often lauded, the service is sometimes lacking and some like J.S.'s posting on Metromix have found that, "The previous location was well lit, didn't smell like cigarettes, had a neat seafood shack atmosphere, and had a great back patio that was BYOB. The new location is, well – a dirty bar."
Local Option patrons primarily consist of neighborhood denizens ranging in age from 21 to 60. One would imagine that the bar would attract more DePaul students, as the university is only a few blocks away, but they seem to gravitate towards livelier establishments like McGee's, John Barleycorn's Memorial Pub or The Apartment. Instead, you'll probably find more professors than students on any given night (at least during the week), and it can be the ideal setting for brunch when your parents come to visit you on Sunday afternoon. Overall, the crowd at the Local Option is pretty laid back and, "a measure of calm beyond the Lincoln Park frenzy," according to Citysearch: Chicago. No one is there to ''see and be seen.'' The Local Option also promotes itself as a dog-friendly bar, and calls itself home to a German shepherd, a pug named "Knuckles," and a pair of golden retrievers.
All this is quite a refreshing change from when the bar used be, "the Chessman Bar, a rough biker joint also known as Fred & Tiny's for more than 17 years," according to Dave Carmody in Barfly's Guide to Chicago's Drinking Establishments (2000). In 1986, Hugh Haller and five silent partners purchased the bar and were in the process of renovating it when some neighborhood residents, who rued the day the Chessman opened, attempted to exercise their "local option." This term refers to a Chicago ordinance that allows neighborhoods to keep their precincts dry. To counter this threat to their business, the owners had to go door to door to reverse public opinion and prevent the issue from getting on the ballot for a general vote, which was difficult as many residents were told that the new bar would be a gay punk rock club with a 1,000 foot outdoor deck. In a last ditch attempt, one of the neighbors attempted to bribe Hugh with $1,000 – or $1 per fictional gay-punk-patio foot of space. Obviously, these un-neighborly tactics didn't work and the bar found a name to commemorate the experience.
"This is the last, true-blue gin mill in this neighborhood that's managed to survive from the days when Lincoln Park was a place you wouldn't want to leave your car."
– Shecky's Bar, Club & Lounge Guide 2002
Well, it's the last neighborhood bar in Lincoln Park West with the exception of the nameless bar just down the street where cops hang out. Rumor has it that it was here that the cops "took care of" an armed robber when he stupidly attempted to stick up the place – a feat worthy of the Darwin Awards. Meanwhile, at the Local Option, regulars continue to down Rolling Rocks, listen to eclectic music, savor New Orleans-style fare, and pet Knuckles. "Whenever you walk by, you want to go in. Rest of the time you forget it's even there." noted The Official Chicago Bar Guide in 2001. While it may be destined to suffer this fate from many would-be patrons, in the same manner as the Side Street Saloon and Cody's, don't make the mistake of passing by. Step inside and have some extra pale ale yourself. Too bad they don't serve Robbie Fulks' favorite, scrapple, to go along with it...
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– written by Sean Parnell